A Conversation With The Coolest Lady In Food
Ruthie Rogers, the co-founder of The River Cafe in London, stopped by Radio Cherry Bombe to talk comfort food, her new book, and "kale pesto"
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“We don’t always eat out of hunger, do we?”
It might surprise you to hear Ruthie Rogers, the co-founder of the River Cafe in London, speak this week on Cherry Bombe, because the restaurant legend is, in fact, American-born! But those who’ve been listening to her podcast, Ruthie’s Table 4, already know that, as well as the way to her heart (vanilla ice cream).
The podcast is now a book, Table 4 at The River Cafe: Conversations about Food and Life, that’s been expertly edited down from over 200 conversations with artists, actors, politicians, writers, chefs, etc., to just over 50. (Think Nigella Lawson, Alice Waters, Greta Gerwig, Tina Fey…) In her conversation with host Kerry Diamond this week, however, Ruthie is the interviewee, and she’s a fount of insight about restaurants, humanity, and a good and glossy tomato-butter pasta sauce. We were hanging on to her every word.
What she’s learned after so many conversations is fascinating. Like how often she hears grandmother stories from her guests (and she has a few reasons why that is), and how, for many people, going out to eat is a measure of success. What we loved hearing most of all was how often Ruthie is in her own restaurant, because there’s nowhere else she’d rather be. Look for her near Table 4, the one her podcast is named after, which is closest to the giant hot pink wood-fired oven in the open kitchen.
And when you’re there, don’t forget to order the famous Chocolate Nemesis cake.
“We eat to share,” Ruthie continued. “We eat to impress, we eat to have fun, but sometimes we also eat when we need comfort.” And for every reason, there’s a recipe.
Don’t call it kale pesto
Ruthie was a little stumped when Kerry told her how much she loved the kale pesto from the River Cafe 30 cookbook. (Thanks to our cover girl Romilly Newman who turned us on to the recipe.) Turns out the Rigatoni with Cavolo Nero and Olive Oil is a whole different thing. Definitely don’t make this with curly kale, says Ruthie.
Hit the Books
Can’t make it to London? The River Cafe 30 cookbook will get you close.
Absurdly cute: There’s even a River Cafe cookbook for kids
We also can’t resist Squeeze Me, an art book she made in collaboration with Ed Ruscha on lemons
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🎧 Padma Lakshmi On Her New Show, America’s Culinary Cup
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