Helen Goh's Champagne & Black Currant Celebration Cake
The expert baker, cookbook author, and longtime Ottolenghi Test Kitchen creative shares this celebratory recipe that's perfect for any occasion (especially for those who love a Kir Royale)
For me, this is the ultimate celebration cake, suffused with my favorite tipple, Kir Royale—champagne with a drop of crème de cassis (black currant liqueur). It took nine different cakes, three custard creams, and five frostings (which, if you do the math, is 135 distinct combinations) to arrive at my ultimate version, which is sumptuous and extravagant. Spoiler: The recipe uses about half a standard bottle of champagne, which means there’ll be leftovers to reward yourself and an accomplice with for a job well done.
Having asked you to purchase a bottle of champagne, I didn’t think I could expect you to spring for a bottle of crème de cassis as well. But as it turns out, sieved black currant jam, spread thinly on each of the cake layers and incorporated into the frosting, perfectly captures the flavor of a Kir Royale.
—Helen Goh
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Ingredients
Makes 10 servings
For the cake
6 large eggs, separated
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (230 grams) granulated sugar, plus ¼ cup (50 grams) for egg whites
7 tablespoons (100 ml) sunflower oil
¾ cup (180 milliliters) champagne (or sparkling wine such as prosecco)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1¾ cups plus 1 tablespoon (225 grams) all-purpose flour
2¾ teaspoons baking powder
1¼ teaspoons cream of tartar
For the filling
6 large egg yolks (freeze the egg whites for another recipe)
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (110 grams) granulated sugar
¾ cup (180 milliliters) champagne (or sparkling wine such as prosecco)
Heaping 1 cup (350 grams) black currant jam
¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons (220 milliliters) heavy cream
For the black currant frosting
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2½ cups (300 grams) powdered sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of fine sea salt
2 tablespoons heavy cream
To finish (optional)
Fresh black currants (or other berries) and black currant or mint leaves, to garnish
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Method
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom of two deep 8-inch (20-centimeter) round cake pans with parchment paper—do not line or grease the sides.
Make the cake: Place the 6 egg yolks and 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (230 grams) of sugar in a large bowl and use a handheld whisk to mix together until light and creamy. Stir in the oil, champagne, vanilla, and salt, then sift in the flour and baking powder and whisk gently to combine.
Whisk egg whites: Place the 6 egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk on medium-high speed until frothy, about 30 seconds, then add the cream of tartar. Whisk for about 1 minute, until soft peaks form, then, still on medium-high speed, drizzle in the extra ¼ cup (50 grams) of sugar. When all the sugar has been added, increase the speed to high and beat until firm peaks form, about 1 minute.
Fold: Transfer about one-third of the egg white mixture into the champagne batter and fold in gently with a large whisk until almost incorporated. Fold in the remaining egg whites, using a light hand to avoid deflating the batter too much, but ensuring the egg whites are fully blended into the batter.
Bake: Scrape the batter into the two prepared pans (about 1 pound 4 ounces/560 grams in each), then, one at a time, drop the pans onto the countertop from about an 8-inch (20-centimeter) height to break the large air bubbles. Bake for about 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.
Cool: When the cakes come out of the oven, immediately drop the pans twice on a heatproof work surface from about an 8-inch (20-centimeter) height—this feels counterintuitive, I know, but it helps to prevent the cakes from sinking in the middle. Place the cakes on a wire rack to cool completely in their pans.
Champagne cream filling: While the cakes are in the oven, make the champagne cream filling. Start by making a champagne sabayon: Place the egg yolks, sugar, and champagne in a medium heatproof bowl and whisk until combined. Set the bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl is not touching the water. Whisk the mixture constantly in a figure-8 pattern, making sure the whisk is always in contact with the bottom and sides of the bowl. When the mixture thickens, after 5 to 7 minutes, remove the bowl from the heat but keep whisking (ideally, over a bowl of ice) for another 2 minutes, then whisk occasionally until the mixture is cool. Scrape the mix into a container and refrigerate until cold—it will be whipped with cream before assembling.
Prepare the jam: Meanwhile, put the black currant jam in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir regularly until warm, then remove from the heat. Pass the jam through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl, pressing firmly to extract as much jam as possible. Discard the solids. This will leave you with approximately ¾ cup (250 grams) of sieved jam, although it may be a little more depending on the jam. Set aside 3 tablespoons of the sieved jam in another small bowl for the black currant frosting. The larger quantity will be used to spread on the cake layers.
Whip the cream: When the cakes are completely cool and ready to be assembled, finish making the champagne cream filling. Place the ¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons (220 milliliters) of cream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on medium-high speed until soft waves form. Remove the cold champagne sabayon from the fridge and add it into the whipped cream. Mix on low speed until smooth, thick, and combined, then place in the fridge.
Slice the cakes: When the cakes are completely cool, run a thin, flexible knife or a long metal spatula around the sides of the cake pan, pressing as close to the pan as possible to avoid tearing the cakes. Turn the cakes out and slice them in half horizontally, so that you have four equal round cakes.
Assemble: To assemble the cake, place one of the cake circles on a serving plate or cake stand. Spread one-third (about 3 tablespoons) of the sieved black currant jam evenly over the cake, then spread one-third of the champagne cream evenly on top. Place another cake circle neatly on top and repeat with the same amount of jam and cream. Continue layering with the remaining two cake circles, ending with an exposed cake circle on the top layer (without jam or champagne cream). Wrap the whole cake in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
Make frosting: When the cake has had its time in the fridge, make the black currant frosting. Place the butter and powdered sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for about 2 minutes, until smooth and creamy. Add the vanilla, salt, and cream, then beat on medium-high speed for another 2 minutes, until light and creamy. Finally, add the reserved 3 tablespoons of sieved black currant jam and beat on low just to combine.
Finish: Remove the cake from the fridge and run a spatula around the sides to tidy it up before spreading the black currant frosting over the top and sides of the cake. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Garnish with black currants or berries and black currant or mint leaves (optional) before serving.
NOTES: Strawberry is a great substitute for black currant in this cake. Indeed, I suspect a strawberry and champagne pairing might be many people’s preference. Simply substitute strawberry jam for the black currant variety. Just make sure to sieve the jam to remove the seeds—this will make it easier to apply onto the delicate cake layers.
All the elements can be prepared 1 day ahead. The assembled cake will slice more neatly if it has been refrigerated for at least 2 hours to help the layers meld together.
From Baking and the Meaning of Life: How to Find Joy in 100 Recipes by Helen Goh. Reprinted by permission of Abrams Books.
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