Behind every viral croissant…is a humble baker
While you’re reading this, there’s probably a line growing outside of Radio Bakery. The people want their tomato croissants. They need them! Radio is one of America’s hottest new bakeries, with locations in Greenpoint and now Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, and with a singular focus. (Obsession?) Laminated dough. It’s the flaky, buttery vision of Kelly Mencin, who dreams up imaginative pastries like her viral heirloom tomato croissant, and the cheesy pretzel bear claw that she talks through with She’s My Cherry Pie host Jessie Sheehan this week.
Sorry if you haven’t had breakfast yet. You will drool. You will yearn. Listening to Kelly talk about her recipes is fascinating and revealing: this is what separates pro pastry chefs from (most of) the rest of us. And that’s a beautiful thing. Her specialized, hard-earned knowledge is incredible, as she casually mentions everything from osmotolerant yeast (can’t make this stuff up!) to the safety precautions of working with lye, and incorporating smidges of past doughs into current doughs for general witchcraft and wonderment.
Kelly worked at Gramercy Tavern, Rolo’s, and Bouchon Bakery, which was “like the army for pastry,” she says, going into detail about how strict and high caliber the kitchen was. She drops some fun facts, like did you know Bouchon founder Thomas Keller forbids fruit and chocolate-combined desserts? (Chef, really?) Hmm, he’d hate Kelly’s dad’s blueberry-topped brownies.
Are you a runner?
Radio Bakery is a stop on the so-crazy-it-must-be-true NYC Bakery Run, on Sunday, Sept. 21st, a half-marathon bakery crawl hosted by the food guide Tipster. Sign-ups are open; the runners will be chosen by lottery.
CATCH SHE’S MY CHERRY PIE ON APPLE, SPOTIFY, OR YOUTUBE.
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Small Valley Milling in Halifax, Pennsylvania, makes the flour that Kelly swears is responsible for Radio Bakery’s distinct flavor
Nostalgia alert: She mentions making pies with Dream Whip fillings as a kid
Ghirardelli boxed brownies still hit, might as well buy a big box
Croissant obsessed? This candle is for you
Croissants love butter. Butter loves this dish
Wise words
“I’m still chasing that high.”
–Kelly Mencin’s most memorable croissant was a brown butter pain au chocolat at Alain Ducasse’s pastry program in Yssingeaux, France. Guess we’re going back to school.
Tip of the week
If you’re planning to visit either of Radio Bakery’s two locations, we suggest becoming a morning person and getting there when they open at 7:30 a.m.
Rabbit hole to chase
On past fourth of Julys, Kelly’s family made salt-crank ice cream, an old-fashioned method the Farmer’s Almanac is all over.
Question for the class
Kelly mentions that her bakery partners aren’t “cake people.” They hate cake. (!) So reveal yourselves. Who’s *not* a cake person?
Fresh baked news
Camari Mick is opening her own place
Cake Picnic in Minneapolis with Betty Crocker 10/4
The Great British Baking Show is back! Who’s watching?
Melissa Funk Weller’s new NYC bakery is allergen-free
Bear-ly holding it together
From the archives
Mindy Segal of Mindy’s Bakery in Chicago talks danishes
The cherry on top
Giada on Radio Cherry Bombe
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