What's the Opposite of An Irish Exit?
Ballymaloe House Pastry Chef JR Ryall showed up with some Dundee cake and lots of good cheer on today's special episode of Radio Cherry Bombe
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“Lovely menu tonight, Jason—I’ll have a poached egg.”
Those are the words JR Ryall remembers Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House in Ireland, saying one night at the world-famous restaurant and hotel she founded. The thing is, poached eggs are JR’s favorite food, too. Now the head pastry chef at Ballymaloe House, JR carries on her legacy to “source good ingredients, and cook them simply,” he tells host Kerry Diamond today on Radio Cherry Bombe.
We want to live in a cottage tucked away on the property of Ballymaloe House (not to be confused with Ballymaloe Cookery School, founded by Myrtle’s daughter-in-law Darina and her brother, Rory, and located approximately two miles from the hotel). But in the meantime, talking to JR is transportive enough to take us there, at least for afternoon tea with a slice of his Dundee cake. It’s an old-school fruit and nut cake that JR calls the “gateway fruit cake”—and he gifted Kerry with a miniature version. We ate every last crumb.
JR was in New York City recently for a counter takeover at King—have you been following this series? He did a breakfast spread of Macroom oatmeal porridge with brown sugar and cream (and rhubarb), bacon and egg pie, and chocolate choux au craquelin. Sorry, it was just one day, folks. To try JR’s wonderful baking, you’ll need to fly to Ireland or pick up his cookbook. Or both! Might we recommend the éclairs?
The conversation this week reminded us why we’re so deeply in love with the dining experience at Ballymaloe House. It just feels like you’re staying at a great aunt’s country home. As JR says, “The family table is the restaurant table, and this is where we all eat.”
Where JR ate while he was in NYC:
King, obviously
Hani’s Bakery (get the big cookie)
So many dollar slices
And the secret to Ballymaloe porridge (aka oatmeal)? Macroom stone-milled Irish oats (swap with steel-cut oats), a good pinch of salt, water, and a slow simmer. That’s it.
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